Putting Together

Jacket

I started the jacket by putting the darts in and pressing them towards the side seams. Next I put in the pockets, this was a difficult process as it has been several months since I have created pockets and I always find it takes time before I can easily remember what I am doing. Throughout this process I constantly referred back to my Level 5 workbook that gives detailed instructions on how to create pockets. I put two jetted pockets in the jacket that had flaps on. The flaps mirrored the curve of the front jacket. Once these were complete I put in breast pocket that was a welt pocket. I had drafted this slightly bigger as the chest size of the jacket is quite large. Once complete I tacked the pocketing down and the pocket mouths shut to keep everything in place whilst I created the rest of the garment.

Next I cut out the canvas and Brest felt, again referring to my level 5 work. I then pad stitched the shoulder canvas to the hair canvas, then the breast felt to the two canvases. These are both stitched using a small pad-stitch that runs parallel to the brake line.  Once complete I then pad stitched these layers onto the jacket front using a much larger pad stitch. Finally I stitched the centre back seam of the jacket together and pressed the all the pieces.

Next I prepared the jacket for the fitting to do this I stitched the side seams and the shoulders together using basting thread. I then tacked the seam allowance down to show the design lines and the lapel down to show the placement. 

Trousers

I started the trousers by putting in the pockets, I used standard side entry pockets. Once complete I tacked them in place so they would be attached securely when putting the waistband. Next I created the fly, and added the button homes on a domestic machine and hand stitched the correct buttons on. I used my Level 5 workbook as instructions on how to do both of these processes and I found that they both went really smoothly and I had no issues with either process.  Once the fly and pockets were in the trousers were ready to be prepared for the fitting. To do this I used basing thread to stitch them together up the side seams and around the seat.

Waistcoat

I started the waistcoat in very much the seam way as the jacket, putting the darts in, then the pockets and then using a large pad stitch to attach a layer of hair canvas. I then created the waistcoat back out of the lining fabric that matched the jacket lining. To do this I started by adding the darts and sewing up the centre back. I then stitched from the waistline around the bottom to the waistline again, rolled the seam and tacked it down. Finally I created the straps and added these on and tacked them down. Once complete I prepared the waistcoat for the fitting by stitching the side and shoulder seams together with basing thread.

Reflection

This entire process was entirely quick as I had 9 days to prepare for the fitting so I was very pushed for time. In this time I also spent a day working on the Much Ado production that was going on, braking down shirts. Because of this I did not have time to complete a sleeve pattern and put it onto the jacket. This is something that I will have to do as soon as possible on a mannequin and I will hopefully be able to have a quick fitting with the actor to check the hang. I also didn’t finish putting in the pockets on the waistcoat as I was having a real difficulty putting the welt pockets in. I am going to have to make sure I give myself more time in the future and work with more focus as I feel that the waistcoat and jacket are not made to the best of my ability. I am glad that I have realised this at this stage of the project so I can make sure that I continue with the project working at the best of my ablitiy.  However I feel that the trousers went really well and I am happy with the pockets and the fly.