Fitting

Jacket

Side seam 1" both sides down to top of vent where it's 1¼ " 

Vent is 2" above hip line

Take out ¼ " at shoulder to help with adjustments

Take 1/8th from top of shoulder 

Lower the lapel to the waistline. Extend lapel by ½" and straiten lapel.

Waistcoat

Arm hole take in by 1 ¾ " at the top, curve round to 1/2" at the bottom – see pins

Take in side seam by ½ " at the top

Lower back neck line by ½" at the centre back

Take in the centre front line by 1"curving round – see pins

Trousers

The ziggering is too tight and this is effecting the hang of the trousers, re-do this before putting together.

Leave the turn-ups, as trousers will be lengthened slightly but do this after second fitting.

Otherwise the overall fit of the trousers is fine.

I am really happy with how the fitting went today. The trousers appear to fit really well however I need to sort out the inside finishing. The jacket is still slightly to bit and I will take in the side seams to account for this. The waistcoat only needs taking in slightly down the centre front and I feel this was probably effected from were I let it out after the calico fitting. The armholes all need altering but this generally happens on very fitting. I will make the alterations to the patterns and then continue to put the suit together. After considering what I have to do I will arrange the second fitting.  

Pockets

For this suit I have 5 welt pockets to complete, 4 in the waistcoat and a breast pocket in the jacket. I also chose to do a sample pocket as this is the first time I have created a welt pocket with a chalk stripe to pattern match. I am glad that I started with a sample as I made some mistakes, however these were easily rectified and when it came to making the welt pockets on the jacket and waistcoat I didn't make these same mistakes. Creating the pattern match proved very difficult as even after taking the welts in place the pattern match moved so it was out of place after machine stitching them. I have tired to match them as best as possible however the match is 1/16th inch out in places as to constantly stitch and unpick it would start to wear away at the fabric. I am happy with the pattern matches in the welt pockets and even though they could be slightly more precise I feel that in getting that accuracy may have cost the fabric around the pocket. 

I drafted the pocket flap on the pocket and then transferred it and cut out in cloth. When making up the pockets the pattern match for the jets is difficult especially on the top jet and you cant tell how well you have created the pattern match until you cut the pocket and by this time it is to late to re do. On one side I am really happy with the match however on the second side I feel that pattern match is really out. However this shouldn’t affect the look of the jacket, as the flap will hide the jets.

I then moved on to the trousers side entry pockets. These are the simplest of the pockets I feel however I found creating the pattern match incredibly challenging. Because of this I only managed to pattern match one part of the facing but this is the facing which is visible, as the other facing is not seen and is on a rolled seam which is top stitched I felt that it was less important for this to be pattern matched. 

Finally I created the jetted pockets on the back of the trousers…

Week 8 Plan

Day	Morning	Afternoon	Evening
Saturday	Jetted pocket flaps	Jetted pockets	BIC 7-11
Sunday	Finish jetted pockets	Blog/ workbook	Blog/workbook
Monday	Find out about back trouser pockets	Attach canvases	Pad stitch lapel
Tuesday	Blog/ workbook	Lecture: 1.30 – 3.30 Uh001	Friends for fooooood!
Wednesday	Put trousers together	put jacket together	Put waistcoat together
Thursday	Prep for fitting	Fitting 1-2	Kayleigh art fundraiser
Friday	Pattern alteration	Pattern alterations
Saturday	Work book Blog PPP Alterations and notes from fitting		BIC: 6.30-11
Sunday

Week 7 Reflection

I have worked really slowly this week and I feel that this is probably due to the fact that I m not pushed for time as my fitting is not until the 28^th. This means that I have not been pushing myself to work hard and because of this I have not been achieving as much as I should be I also did not receive my lining until Wednesday which pushed me back slightly however I should have found other tasks to complete instead of waiting time. I still have not completely finished my jetted pockets and I also have not completed my trouser pockets.  I have also fallen behind on my blog entries and workbook. However I have done some work on PPP and I have planned my portfolio and started my evaluation. Next week I will have to work really hard to be prepared for my fitting and hopefully I will keep this hard work up and keep on top of my project. 

Week 7 Plan

Day	Morning	Afternoon	Evening
Saturday	Welt pockets	Welt pockets	Blog Pad stitch
Sunday	Finishing pockets	Trouser pockets	Blog Pad stitch
Monday	Prep jetted flap pockets Cut out canvases	Pad stitch	Blog Pad stitch
Tuesday	Prep jetted pockets Cut out lining	Lecture: 1.30 – 3.30 Uh001 Mark tack WC back	Pad stitch
Wednesday	Jetted pockets	Tutorial with graham 2:10 Jetted Pockets	Pad stitch canvases
Thursday	History Lecture UH001 9-10 Trouser fly	Jetted Pockets on trousers	Bic: 5.30-11
Friday	Jetted Pockets on trousers	Put trousers together	Bic: 5.30-11
Saturday	Work book Blog PPP Finishing Put waistcoat together Put trousers together		BIC: 6-11
Sunday