Jacket Comparison

For my final photo with the taking left in I tried to take a photo in the same position as my original image. I feel you can really see the similarities between the tho suits and I feel that I have created a suit which I am really proud of.

Final photos

These are the final photos taken before the taking has been removed and the buttons and button holes put in. I am really pleased with the final outcome I feel that it links close to my reference image. I am really looking forward to doing the final finishing after hand in to complete the jacket. I would also like to make a matching waistcoat and take a series of professional photos which i could use as part of my portfolio.

Finishings left to do after hand in:

• hem trousers and finish the bottoms
• add all buttons
• button holes
• remove all tacking



Evaluation

I have really enjoyed doing tailoring for my self-directed project. I feel that it has pushed me to work hard. This project has widened my range of skills and I feel that I working to a higher level of accuracy.

I started this project by researching into tailoring, looking at the historical aspects of it as well as looking at different patterns and different styles of jackets.  I feel that I did enough research to help me create the suit however I feel that I could have done more general research into styles of jackets and variations. When I am creating a garment I will look at research into that specific time period and style specifically.

The pattern drafting process is incredibly important because any mistakes made here will affect the garment later on. Because of this I ended up drafting my jacket several times but I am really happy with the end results and I feel my precision shows by the fit of the suit. However, I was not so precise over the waistcoat as I knew that it was not going to be made and I was pushed for time.  I also struggled through the pattern drafting and research stage as I was on my work experience working on a play in London. I feel that this may have put me behind slightly with my work but this pushed me to work hard and keep focused. I did not have a pattern match, which made cutting out simpler. I chose a plain fabric, as I wanted to concentrate on the accuracy and skills rather than thinking about the pattern match. The mark taking process is very important and I feel I rushed this slightly as I was pushed for time, next time I will take more care over it to make sure everything matched up exactly.  

There are so many different techniques used when creating a suit and lots of these are very specific to certain parts of the suit. I feel that I now have a good understanding of these techniques and I would be able to repeat all of them again when needed. I feel much more confident about pockets after creating several in the jacket and over time I feel that they will become a much simpler process.

I am really happy that I had a fitting and it boosted my confidence as the suit fitted well and everything looked in the right place. To me this was surprising but if the preparation for the jacket is dome with accuracy when it comes together there is no reason it will not fit. I feel that I now have an understanding of a fitting and the process’s that happens, how to prepare for a fitting and what to look for.

Even though it was not part of my learning agreement I decided to work with the others and create a pair of trousers to match the jacket. This pushed me to work harder and keep up with everything but I am really pleased I did it and that I have the skills. I have added all the instructions for the trousers in the workbook, as I wanted all the information to be in one place for future reference.

I feel that I have learnt so much form this suit and I will take all these skills that I have leant and build on them in future project. I hope to carry tailoring on in the future, as it is something that I really enjoy and I look forward to creating more tailored garments.  

Collar

Finally create the collar. Start by drafting a pattern for the collar. Draft the pattern by starting with an L shape as shown below.

A= the Centre Back to the Shoulder Seam

B= Shoulder seam to Brake Line

C= Brake Line to Lapel Point

D=2.5cm

E= 3/3.5 cm

F= 4cm

G= Width of lapel or Slightly Smaller

Once the collar has been drafted cut out a paper pattern and pin onto the jacket to get an idea of shape and size. Alter the pattern until happy with the shape and then cut out in calico on the bias. Pin on the jacket as before and make any alterations. 

This is the first paper pattern, the angle between the lapel and the collar is to big

this is the second paper pattern the angle is much better but I will make it slightly smaller on the calico mock up

this is sitting nicely so I will use this as my pattern

Once happy, cut out the Collar Canvas in two halves on the bias. Add 1cm seam allowance around and 0.75cm for the centre back line where the two halves will overlap slightly. Next cut out the Collar Melton this again is done in two halves on the bias with 1cm seam allowance. Once cut out stitch the two pieces together and press the seam open. This is known as the under collar. The top collar is made out of cloth and is cut on the Strait of Grain with the centre back on the fold there is a 1cm seam allowance all around and a further 2cm at either edge.

Stitch the collar canvas together flat and stitch the Melton together with a usual seam which is pressed open. Lay the canvas on the Melton and stitch through the brake line. Pad stitch the canvas to the Melton starting from the brake line and moving across not going as far as the seam allowance. Start with the stand then move back to the brake line and pad stitch the fall. Push the fabric towards the brake line slightly the same way as creating the lapel. On the fall mark off the corners and pad stitch this perpendicular. Trim the seam allowance away along the bottom edge then trim the canvas away by a further few mill. Next lat the pattern on top and trim away the seam allowance along the top edge checking that the pattern still fits leave the side edges long. Take the collar to the iron and gently press making sure that the canvas remains flat. Now iron and stretch the corners of the canvas slightly as needed to fit on the jacket. Fold along the brake line and steam this in place without putting any weight on the collar.

Pin the collar onto the jacket and check how it lies. Once happy with the placement whip stitch into place with matching thread. Take the cut out collar in top cloth and lay on the canvas, tack along the brake line to hold in place. Baste the collar down smoothing it you go. Herring bone the collar down underneath the lining and fold the lining over and tack into place. When the collar meets the facing tuck the collar seam allowance under the collar and the facing seam allowance under the facing, butting the two edges against each other then stitch theses two edges together.

Along the top edge of the collar trim the Melton down a few mill lower than the canvas then fold the top of the collar over placing it between the Melton and canvas. Whip stitch this into place making sure the collar lays smooth

 Finally trim and fold the edges over then herring bone into place. Press to finish.




For the final stages of creating the collar I was not in the studio and relied on others SDP bolgs to complete the finishing stages. i hope that i have finished the collar to a high standard and I feel that i have completed it properly and it appears to lie correctly however I will not know until after I have handed in my suit. I am really pleased that I managed to finish it myself and hope my blog  instructions could also be followed and used to assist with making a suit.

Waistband and Putting the Trousers Together

Stitch the trouser backs to the front along the outside leg seam. Next cut out the canvas shapes that will fit into the waistband. These can be taken off the original pattern and fit under each seam that is folded back. Make sure this covers the fish tale and add 2’’ at the centre back. Baste this into place making sure the pocketing it on the top and put a small folded pleat in over the dart.

 Cut the seam allowance off the placket which holds the button holes. Fold the seam allowance over and herringbone securely into place along the waistband except for around the fly point as this will bee seen so slip stitch where the canvas is not. Take two trouser hooks and 6’’ of thin cotton tape. Thread the tape on to the trouser hoot at the smallest hole and knot into place. Twist the remaining tape and stitch to the canvas; this acts as an anchor meaning the hooks will not distort the fly. Cut out the lining making sure there is enough to fold and secure. Leave extra seam allowance at the centre back and front. Fold the bottom edge of the lining down twice and stitch to finish. Place this onto the waistband and baste into place making sure there is a pleat folded in over the dart. At the trouser hooks fold up in the hook, as if you are ‘putting them to bed’. Fold over the top edge and tack into place but only go as far as the fish tales. Once Sucre the trousers can be put together and the waistband will be finished after

To put the trousers together start by stitching the inside legs seams up. Turn one leg inside out and post inside the second leg. Now stitch around the trousers to finish them. Remember to double stitch the line so it is secure. Press open the seam and at the centre back of the waistband fold out and herringbone to the canvas.

 Lay the end of one side of lining out and stitch into place. Then fold the second piece over to finish the centre back seam. Make sure this is attached securely. Finish all the lining in place and make sure it is neat all around. 

Sleeves and Cuffs

To create the sleeve put the jacket on the manikin and mark the front point and back point. The back point falls on the chest line and the front point falls around 3” along from the centre of the underarm. These points are described in the instructions in the appendices. Next measure the Under arm measuring and the over arm measurement and from this start to draft the sleeve pattern. Add the seam allowances on 1.5cm at the head of the sleeve, 5cm at the cuff, 2cm at the back of the sleeve and .75 cm at the front.  Once the sleeve pattern is drafted cut it out in calico and tack into place to check the hang of the sleeve and the positioning. If happy with the toil sleeve cut out in top fabric and stitch the sleeve together.

 Next cut out the sleeve in lining. Add an extra ½’’ to the top of the sleeve lining for ease, cut out and stitch together. 


Once stitched together press the seams open on the lining and cloth. With both inside out place them on top of each other and tack the seams together on the curve of the sleeve as shown in the diagram.

Next putting your arm through the sleeve tack around the bottom of the sleeve around 5’’ from the cuff and do the same 5’’ around the head of the sleeve following the shape.

To make the cuff start by drafting it onto the sleeve pattern. Add seam allowance around the cuff and 5cms at the bottom. Cut out the cuff lining and cloth, baste on canvas onto the cloth and attach the cloth and lining. Turn through, role the seam and tack then press. 

Once created stitch onto the sleeve in matching thread and trim away any excess from the sleeve. Cut out 2’’ strip of canvas and baste around the cuff of the sleeve fold over the cloth and herringbone in place. 

Fold the lining to the end of the cuff then push down slightly. Slip stitch securely. Once happy with both sleeves pin them into the jacket to see how they hang. If happy tacking into place and check again then stitch securely into place. Remove all the tacking from around the armhole and slip stitch the lining into place. When slip stitching the lining into place ignore the added seam allowance and act like there is only a ¼’’.  

Reflection

The Sleeves are all about accuracy and preparation and without this they will not fit. I tried to be as accurate as possible when drafting the sleeve and I feel that it paid of as when it came to putting the sleeves in they fit well. The ease added has created a fullness at the top of the sleeve and I feel this links well with my image. I'm really happy with how my sleeve fitted in, there was only a small section of the sleeve which I had to unpick and straiten the line up. The lining also fitted in well but it found the amount of easy added and extra seam allowance made it difficult to sit it without the fabric starting to gather up. I am happy with how the sleeves sit and now they are in the jacket it really starting to take shape. Overall this is a really rewarding process and I am really excited to add the colour and complete the jacket. 

Button Fly

Next create the button fly. Start by cutting out the pieces as indicated in the instructions in the appendices. Mark the fly point on the trousers, then stitch the centre front line up starting 1’’ away from the inside leg seam and stopping at the fly point.  Once stitched this line reinforce is by stitching again over the top. Placing the lining on the trousers stitch this into place. This must go past the fly point and when you get to the fly point stitch onto the seam allowance as close to the seam as possible. Role the seam and tack into place. Make up the placket by stitching the two shapes together along the curved edge, role the seam, tack and press before attaching this onto the trousers repeating the same process as above at the fly point.

Make up the second placket this time stitching it down the strait edge, role seams and tack in place. Mark on the buttonholes the top hole will be around ½’’ from the waistline and the bottom hole will be around ¾’’ from the fly point. Ideally each buttonhole should be around 4cm apart and defiantly no less. 

Pin this in place so there is a slight lip between the packet and trousers when the trousers are complete hit will help them sit flat stitch the placket to the raw edge of the lining then tack the fly shut. Once done ,following the curve of the placket, top stitch in place. When you get to the curve flatten the 1^st placket down so this is caught behind to keep securely in place. 

The fly was simple to put in but it was very easy to make small mistakes. I am really glad I completed a sample fly as this made creating it on the trousers much easier. Next time I make a pair of trousers I will put a wider lining in the first placket and fold it over so when have stitched it in it can be folded over and slip stitched to kept the raw edge hidden.  

Buttons

There are specific buttons used for tailored garments. They are 4 holed buttons and have a flat top.

The smallest is a fly button or cuff button it is around 3/8ths of an inch. Around the size of a 5p. The whit one would be used for attaching braces to the trousers.

The next is a waistcoat button this is around 5/8ths of an inch

The next is generally used for jackets and is 7/8ths of an inch and is around the size of a 20p

fly button

 jacket button 

lining

Place the lining to on the centre front and stitch in place using the canvas line as a guide. Round the lapel corner as much as possible. Once stitched mightier the lapel corner and cut into the collar corner going up to the stitch line and making sure it turns out easily. Press the seam open using the tailoring devise shown below. Stitch the neckline in place.

Once the seam is pressed open role the seam at the lapel so that you cant see it. Move down but when you get to the bake line role the seam in the other direction. This is because when the lapel is folded back you don’t want to see the seam of the facing. Next tack in the brake line making sure it is smooth, then baste the facing and the front together smoothing across. Once done peal the lining back to the seam were the lining is attached to the facing and tack this down through all layers and pad stitch in place. Smooth the rest of the lining across and baste this in place to.

Attach the side seams together making sure the point where they meet under the armhole is correct. Then lay the lining on top of the back wrong sides together and pin the pleat into place, baste the centre backs together and tack the pleat down. Baste down then back panels to keep them in place but leave several inches at the bottom for finishing the jacket. Pin the lining of the front panels to the side seam then fold and pin the lining panels of the back in place. Leave some ease if there is more that ¼” which can be turned over. Then slip stitch this into place to secure it.  Tack around the armhole to fasten the lining in place. 

Run a strip of canvas along the entire back panel that finishes at the seams hiding beneath the seam allowance. These pieces should be 5cm wide. Then run a second piece from where the canvas ends on the front around to the side seam that rests just over the side seam. Baste the canvas in place. Turn the cloth up over the canvas and cross-stitch in place.

Fold the lining over then raise it slightly to add extra ease this will taper out where it meets the facing. Slip stitch in place as shown. Once this is done stitch together the shoulders and tack and slip stitch the lining in place. 

Now put on the mannequin to see how it all hangs before starting the sleeve. 

Reflection

As I have just had my fitting I feel that this is a good time to look back at the project so far. I feel that I had to make many alterations during the pattern drafting as this was during my work experience and I wasn’t completely focused on the project.  I also do not feel that I have done enough research on this project and I will try and do some more research into tailoring to further my knowledge for future projects. However I am pleased with patterns I have drafted and I feel that they are of a high standard and this is shown by the fit of the jacket in my fitting. I have found all the processes we have learnt so far challenging but manageable. I feel that I have already furthered my knowledge in this area and I am really enjoying every part. As I expected I really struggled with the pockets so I created a sample and I am really glad I did this as it went very wrong and I learnt a lot from the mistakes I made doing it. When it came to completing the pockets on the jacket they were much simpler however they did not take the 30 minutes that graham suggested they should. Next I created the breast pocket, this was a welt pocket but as there is not a huge difference between them and the jetted pocket I decided not to do a sample. This pocket went smoothly however it ended up smaller by 1cm than it should be. Next time I create a jacket I think I will make the breast pocket bigger as this one appears very small. I also managed to complete this pocket in 1½ hour that I am very pleased about and I feel that I am starting to work faster as well as staying very precise.

I found the pad stitching very time consuming and I found it hard to keep them regular sizes and evenly spaced.  I also found with pad stitching the lapel I pushed the canvas across to far which meant I had to re do it several times which was very time consuming and meant I fell slightly behind meaning I have more work to catch up on.

I was really pleased with how my fitting went and it has given me more confidence in my skills and myself. I am really pleased I had the fitting so early as it really pushed me to get as much work done as possible. I am looking forward to seeing the jacket come together however I know there is a limited amount of time left so I will try to work as fast as I can whilst still being very accurate. Though I am creating the trousers to they will not be handed in and are not part of my learning agreement so I will try and focus on them at home and focus strongly on the jacket in lesson time, as this is what needs to be a priority. 

i am really please i chose Tailoring as my SDP project and i feel that i have learnt so many new skills which i can use in other projects. i also feel that i am working to a higher standard and i am making sure that i am very precise in everything i do. 

Side Pockets

Start by cutting out the pocketing and the facing. Mark the pocket mouth with uprights on the trousers. It should start around 1½” below the waistline and be around 6” deep. Make sure the pocketing sits ¼” above the waistline and 1” below the pocket mouth.  Lay the pocketing on the trousers and transfer the mark uprights across. Lay the facings on the pocketing making sure there ½” bigger than the pocket mouth either side. Use a zigzag stitch to fasten the facing to the pocketing around the raw edges. Press to the pieces are completely flat.

Place the first piece of pocketing on the trousers right sides together. Mark a parallel line ½” away from the side seam and the pocket uprights. Stitch along this line and the uprights then cut away the excess fabric so there is a ¼” seam allowance left. Snip into the corners as close the stitching as possible.  

Turn the right way through, role the seam and tack it in place. top stitch 1/8" in and press. Lay the second piece of pocketing on top and stitch the side and the bottom of the pocket together, then zigzag the raw edge.  Tack the pocketing in place so it doesn’t get caught when making the rest of the trousers and take the pocket mouth shut. 

Lining

Once you have finished attaching the canvases and fixing the design line cut out the linings and facing. To cut out the facing lie the jacket front on the cloth then trace round the front lines. The facing curves 2/3rds of the shoulder and curves round and straitens at the chest line. Don’t forget to add ¼ “ to the side which will attach to the lining fabric. Now cut out the lining but add a further 0.5cm all the way around as extra ease. Stitch the facing and the lining together and press the seam leaving the cloth flat and the fold in the lining. Add any darts. Cut out the back lining but add 1.5cms to the top and taper down to halfway between the chest and waistline this creates a pleat that allows for movement. Stitch the backs together and add the pleat.

Put a Jetted pocket in the front lining that will sit on the seam of the cloths just below the armhole. This pocket sits on the same side as the breast pocket and is the size of a wallet. The sizing is around 13-14cms

fitting

Start by fitting the trousers, generally the fly and pockets would be done at this point as all the alterations would be done on the back pieces of the trousers. However I had not completed this so I stitched up the front of the trousers and left the back open, as you would do for a costume fitting. You also need elastic to create braces, as there is no waistband yet and this style of trousers would always be worn with braces.  Once dressed stand away from the model and make sure there is a mirror in front of them so they can watch the process. Check the fit and make any necessary changes. There should be a brake in the lower part of the trousers. This gives them a relaxed feel. Make sure the model is wearing similar shoes to what they would be wearing with the suite and shape the trousers around. They will be slightly longer at the back than the front, at the back they rest on the top of the sole of the shoe.

Next move onto the jacket the jacket should have one sleeve on which can be in calico but as we haven’t got to that stage yet the jacket is sleeveless. Start by going to the back of the jacket and making sure it is smooth across the back. Then pin the jacket together where the buttons would usually fall. Then stand back and look at the overall fit. The lapel at this stage would normally have all the allowance still left on and be tacked to the desired size this is as this is once of the most common design changes.  Look at the armhole; this is the most common place for alterations as it usually need scooping out more at the front. If it is very tight on the model snip into it, making sure you keep your hand between the scissors and the model.

I was really pleased with how my fitting went. I felt that the trousers had a really good fit to them and the darts created the right amount of shaping. The jacket fit very well overall and required minimum changes that I am very happy about. I feel that this was the best fitting I have done so far in uni and I feel that the reason for it is because of the precision taken when tailoring and how exact every stage is.

Notes

• Good shape to the legs
• Armhole needs scooping out at the front as it is gathering up to much.
• The side seam at the armhole doesn’t match up correctly. This is more important than the waistline matching up correctly.