Pattern Drafting

For my patterns I have used Bridglands; The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier as the patterns will be historically accurate, I have used this book before to draft patterns however these patterns are slightly more challenging than those that I have previously used. This is one of the reasons that I have decided to do a full calico toile. The pattern drafting took slightly longer than anticipated but hopefully because of this I will have created accurate patterns. To help me with slight variations of lapel size, turn-ups and pocket placements I referred to other tailoring books and cutting systems as well as Graham’s notes from previous projects. 

Double Breasted Jacket Pattern

Waistcoat Pattern

Trouser Pattern

Trouser Adaptations

Lapel Sizes

Table of Proportions

Measurements

I have found a model for this project who is able to attend the fittings and a photo shoot to finish. I have taken his measurements so I am now able to start pattern drafting. After taking the appropriate measurements I then arranged a calico fitting for the 6^th of February giving me just over a week to source fabric, make my patterns and a calico toile. 

Week 3 Reflection

This week I managed to collect a lot of research, which is appropriate to this project. After looking at a range of different pattern drafting books I decided to use take the patterns from The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier. I have decided on these patterns as the book was written in 1928, meaning that the patterns are relevant to the 1920s era. I have chosen patterns that are close to my design that I can adapt to make them as accurate as possible. I also created my line drawings and a design that I can refer back to as well as the images I collected from Boardwalk Empire. This will help me with adapting my patterns, creating shape and looking at positioning of the pockets, lapel and collar. I decided to use nick as my model and I recorded his measurements in both cms and inches. I then collected all this research together and met with Graham to discus the next step. After looking at the patterns Graham agreed that The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier was the best choice for patterns due to when it was written. After looking at the photos of nick and his measurements he advised me to find a different model who is slightly older with a larger chest measurement. I decided to take his advice however I am now unable to find a suitable model and this is holding me back as I am unable to start pattern drafting. I aim to have found a model by Monday so I am able to start pattern drafting next week. I also visited Weymouth and though this was a really useful trip I was unable to find a fabric that is suitable for my garment so I may have to visit London next week. I also contacted a range of museums to try and gain some primary research, this was very time consuming and so far I have still been unable to arrange any primary research. However I was able to view Grahams photos and notes from where has previously visited museums to view suits. I feel that though I have not started pattern drafting I have managed to get a lot done and I will push myself really hard next week to start creating my garment, as I need to keep on top of this project and not let it run into the second part of EMP.  

Week 4 Plan

Day	Morning	Afternoon	Evening
Saturday	Weekly time plan Learning agreement	Update blog and workbook Research	Create Designs with Bri
Sunday	Finish Research	Update blog and workbook Research	BIC: 6.30
Monday	Have measurements	Pattern draft	Blog Work book
Tuesday	Pattern draft	Les Miserable: 2.30
Wednesday	Pattern Draft	Pattern Draft	Blog Work book
Thursday	History Lecture 9-10	Cut out in calico
Friday	Mark tack	Mark Tack
Saturday	Put together Blog Work book	BIC: 1-5
Sunday	Put together Blog Work book	BIC: 2-6 TM

Fabric Sourcing

I visited H. E. Box in Weymouth who are a woollen fabric suppliers, specialising in tailoring fabrics. They were really helpful but unfortunately the wools were to light for my suit as it is a period piece. However we did get a samples book that we could take back to uni to be put in the archive.  This trip was helpful to see the shop and meet the staff and I’m sure I will visit them in the future. We then visited the fabric shop in Weymouth to look at lining fabrics however there was nothing suitable and we felt the shop was over priced. Finally we met Linda Clift in Dorchester to view some vintage buttons and lace. I found some vintage buttons that may be suitable for my waistcoat and to be used as fly buttons. I also found some collar studs and arm garters that I hope will be useful in the future.

Details:

H. E. Box – 01305 839123

http://www.hebox.co.uk/

Linda Clift - 01305 264914

http://www.antiquequiltsandtextiles.co.uk/

Responses to Emails

 Brighton Museum and Art Gallery

Awaiting response

Cheltenham Art Galleries and Museum

Currently closed so no access to archives

Killerton House

Currently sorting new exhibition so to busy

Salisbury and south Wiltshire museum

Awaiting response

The Museum in the Park

A 1940s suit I am able to go and view but unsure how relevant this is.

The Blandford Fashion Museum

Nothing available

I will continue to contact museums to try and arrange a viewing of a 1920s suit. However I was able to view Grahams notes and photos of suits he has viewed at the V and A and Bath Fashion Museum, which have been very useful when looking at period details. 

Primary Research - Looking for a 1920's suit

After being unsuccessful in getting a study table at Bath Fashion museum I started to enquire at other museums across the south I phoned and sent emails to the list of museums below:

Brighton Museum and Art Gallery - 03000 290900

http://www.brighton-hove-rpml.org.uk/Museums/brightonmuseum/whattosee/Pages/home.aspx

Costume Curator: Martin pel 01273 292767

Cheltenham Art Galleries and Musum - 01242 237431

http://www.cheltenhammuseum.org.uk/

helen.brown@cheltenham.gov.uk

Killerton House - 01392 881345

http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/killerton/

Salisbury and south Wiltshire museum - 01722 332151

http://www.salisburymuseum.org.uk/

The Museum in the Park – 01453 763394

http://www.museuminthepark.org.uk

The Blandford Fashion Museum - 01258 453006

http://www.theblandfordfashionmuseum.com/home.htm

I am waiting for replies from all these apart from the Blandford Fashion Museum who said they had nothing and were shut until February. I will also try contacting vintage shops encase they have anything relevant. Here is a copy of the email that I have been sending out:

Hi, I am currently studying costume at the Arts University Bournemouth and for my final project I am creating a 1920’s three-piece, double-breasted suit. As part of my primary research I am hoping to look at an original suit from the 1920’s or 1930’s era. If you have anything in your collection that I could view it would be much appreciated.

Kind Regards,

Elly

Budgeting

As I have chosen a self-directed project I am working on my own, therefore I have to consider budgeting for this project. I have referred back to my previous work books to find costings of materials that will be needed, the prices and amounts of these fabrics should be accurate so I have marked these in white. As I am yet to find the cloth and the amounts are uncertain I have marked these in red. From this estimate I am going to set my budget at £350. I will update this budget sheet throughout the project to keep track of costings and amounts used.

Fabric	Use	Amount	Price	Cost
Wool	Top cloth	5	£40.00	£200.00
Lining	Lining	5	£10.00	£50.00
Silesia	Pockets	1.5	£3.45	£5.18
Hair canvas	All	2	£6.50	£13.00
Shoulder canvas	Jacket front	0.5	£6.50	£3.25
Breast felt	Jacket front	0.5	£6.60	£3.30
Collar canvas	collar, cuffs waistband	0.5	£6.20	£3.10
Collar melton	collar	0.25	£6.60	£1.65
Ice wool	arm holes	0.25	£6.10	£1.53
Stayflex	Pockets, Lapel	0.5	£2.95	£1.48
Thread	Top cloth	4	£1.50	£6.00
Thread	Lining	2	£1.50	£3.00
Buttons	Fly	5	£0.50	£2.50
Buttons	Waistcoat	7	£1.00	£7.00
Buttons	Jacket	5	£1.50	£7.50
Buttons	Jacket cuffs	9	£1.00	£9.00
		Estimated total cost		£317.48

Plan - 17th Jan

As I worked the weekend and was then ill all week I am now behind on IS and EMP, because of this I have decided to create a plan for this week so I can catch up on all the work I need to. Below is the plan and I can print off a version and tick things off and add to it as I go.  If this is useful for this week I will continue using this as my method of planning.

Day	Morning	Afternoon	Evening
Thursday 17th Jan	-	Make a Plan Call for samples Go to library	IS essay
Friday	EMP research BLOG! – Backdate	IS essay	Line Drawings and designs
Saturday	IS essay Get Measurements?	IS essay	FCSB - Christchurch
Sunday	IS essay	Bind IS Essay Line Drawings and designs complete	Put Research together in folder
Monday	Meeting Hand in IS	Show G everything and get opinion Start pattern drafting	BLOG
Tuesday	Pattern Draft		Meet for tea 4:00 BIC: 6.00
Wednesday	Check Patterns	Cut out in Calico	BLOG
Thursday	Weymouth Fabric Sourcing?		Mark tack
Friday	Put together		BIC: 6.30
Saturday	Finish putting together		BIC: 6.30
Sunday	Work book Blog entries	Prepare for fitting