For this suit I
have 5 welt pockets to complete, 4 in the waistcoat and a breast pocket in the
jacket. I also chose to do a sample pocket as this is the first time I have
created a welt pocket with a chalk stripe to pattern match. I am glad that I
started with a sample as I made some mistakes, however these were easily
rectified and when it came to making the welt pockets on the jacket and
waistcoat I didn't make these same mistakes. Creating the pattern match proved
very difficult as even after taking the welts in place the pattern match moved
so it was out of place after machine stitching them. I have tired to match them
as best as possible however the match is 1/16th inch out in places as to
constantly stitch and unpick it would start to wear away at the fabric. I am
happy with the pattern matches in the welt pockets and even though they could
be slightly more precise I feel that in getting that accuracy may have cost the
fabric around the pocket.
I drafted the
pocket flap on the pocket and then transferred it and cut out in cloth. When making
up the pockets the pattern match for the jets is difficult especially on the
top jet and you cant tell how well you have created the pattern match until you
cut the pocket and by this time it is to late to re do. On one side I am really
happy with the match however on the second side I feel that pattern match is
really out. However this shouldn’t affect the look of the jacket, as the flap will
hide the jets.
I then moved
on to the trousers side entry pockets. These are the simplest of the pockets I
feel however I found creating the pattern match incredibly challenging. Because
of this I only managed to pattern match one part of the facing but this is the
facing which is visible, as the other facing is not seen and is on a rolled seam
which is top stitched I felt that it was less important for this to be pattern matched.
Finally I created
the jetted pockets on the back of the trousers…
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