Cutting out

I cut out in cloth adding seam allowances and inlays.  Because the cloth has a chalk stripe I had to consider a pattern match when cutting out, I also needed to consider the angle of the stripe to make sure this was always at the same angle. To do this I marked the top of the fabric on the wrong side making sure this all the pattern pieces were led according to this.   the jacket back I have decide to have vents in the side seam. I have taken this detail from the image below.

Blackman, C. (2009).100 Years of Menswear. London: Laurence King  (p.92)

This image is of a late 1920’s gangster suit and I like the image that the vents create to allow for these I had to consider them when cutting out. I started around 4’’ above the waistline and they are 2’’ wide. I have left plenty of fabric as I can cut away the excess. I have also added allowances of 1’’ along the side of the turn-ups and 2’’ below the turn-ups encase there are any alterations which need to be made to the length of the trousers. All the added seam allowances can be seen below in red.

Jacket and waistcoat front

Inlays of 2cm

·      Shoulder

·      Side seam

Seam allowance

·      4cm down the CF following round the hemline.

·      1.5 cm around the neck

·      1.5cm around the armhole

 Jacket and waistcoat back

Seam allowance

·      2.5cm at the Centre back

·      1.5 cm around the neck line

·      1.5cm around the armhole

·      4cm along the hemline

Trousers Front

·      1.5cm at the waistline

·      Allowance around turn-up

Trousers Back

·      1.5cm along the waistline up to the back of the point

·      5cm at the front of the point

·      5cm in the seat tapering to the curve where the is no allowance

·      Allowance around turn-up