Week 10 Plan

Day	Morning	Afternoon	Evening
Saturday	Blog/ workbook	Trouser pockets	BIC 5.30-11
Sunday	Finish trousers	Finish trousers and waistcoat
Monday	Complete alterations	Stayflex and finish lapel	BIC 6-10
Tuesday	Cut out facing	Cut out lining	Mark pockets in lining
Wednesday	PPP work	Portfolio tutorial 1.30- 3.30 TPO research	Pockets in lining
Thursday	Pockets in lining	Attach facing to lapel	Attach canvass to bottom of jacket
Friday	Stitch jacket together	Put on mannequin and get armhole measurement. Draft collar
Saturday	Draft sleeve and make up in calico Update workbook and blog Start drafting TPO garments
Sunday

Week 9 Reflection

This week I completed the waistcoat for the second fitting. I made all the alterations, lined and finished the fronts. I then attached the front to the back however I have only tacked this line through as it may alter after the fitting. After the fitting I will stitch the line through and cut away the excesses. I stitched the side seams of the trousers and completed the waistband adding the hooks and bars.  I met with graham to look at his notes and images on suits that he had viewed. I did this, as I was unable to view any suits myself. From this I took the position of the pockets that will go into the trousers. I positioned these and marked them onto the trousers. For these pockets I am doing a jetted pocket with a flap inside the pocket. Having the flap inside the pocket is a new technique for me and it is made more challenging by the pattern match. I am really happy with how this went and I am pleased with the pocket. I then stitched up the legs and centre back of the trousers. Slip stitching the lining into place.

This week has been very productive and though I have not been able to do any work on the jacket I have got the trousers and waistcoat ready for my next fitting.  I have now also got my design for The Threepenny Opera however I have not managed to do any work on it as I have been trying to complete the first part of EMP that is my suit. I hope to start researching and pattern drafting next week. 

The Threepenny Opera

Today we had our first meeting to discus and find out about The Threepenny Opera that is the second part of my EMP project. We discussed the different designs and which ones appealed to us. Several of us wanted designs that involved tailoring so Naomi and I decided to split Macheath’s costume. I will be creating the waistcoat and trousers and Naomi will create the coat. We will have to work together as a team to complete these designs as we will need to make them work as a outfit. We will also have to work with the rest of the costume team to make sure production works as a whole. I will also be working as part of a team to adjust and alter the suits that are going to be sourced. This will help me in my understanding of tailoring as I will have to look at and alter a range of different ready made suits. I am also going to be working with Briony to create the hat that completes Macheath’s costume. This is really exciting as I have wanted to have a go at Millenary for a while and I have yet to have the opportunity to do so. 

This is a really exciting project as it is such a huge live project. I am really happy to be working with a designer and supervisor again and to be working to a live brief with actors. This project will also really push me as I have mostly worked on historical projects where as this is a futuristic project based on historical ideas. I will start researching this week however the research will be more abstract than from other projects. I will then start pattern drafting and creating a toile. 

Budgeting

I have now purchased the majority of components for my suit and so far I have spent £264.20. I am really happy with this as my estimate for the suit and photo shot was £350. There are still items that I need to purchase and I will have extra thread to buy however I am on track to hopefully not exceed £300 for this project.

Fabric	Use	Amount	Price	Cost
wool	Top cloth	6	£24.75	£148.50
lining	lining	5	£12.00	£60.00
silesia	pockets	1	£3.45	£3.45
hair canvas	all	3	£6.50	£19.50
shoulder canvas	jacket front	1	£6.50	£6.50
breast felt	jacket front	0.5	£6.60	£3.30
collar canvas	collar, cuffs waistband	0.5	£6.20	£3.10
collar melton	collar	0.25	£6.60	£1.65
Ice wool	arm holes	0.25	£6.10	£1.53
Stayflex	Pockets, Lapel	0.5	£2.95	£1.48
thread	top cloth	4	£1.40	£5.60
thread	lining	1	£1.40	£1.40
Thread	Baisting	3	£1.40	£4.20
buttons	fly	1	£1.00	£1.00
buttons	waistcoat	1	£1.00	£1.00
buttons	jacket	0	£1.50	£-
Buttons	Jacket cuffs	1	£1.00	£1.00
Buckel	waistcaot	1	£1.00	£1.00
		Total cost		£264.20

Week 9 Plan

Day	Morning	Afternoon	Evening
Saturday	Blog/workbook Organise life	Unpick trousers Cut away seam allowance Re-zigger trousers	BIC 6.30-11
Sunday	Trim and re tack bottom line Mark any adjustments	Un-tack waistcoat Mark alterations Cut down lapel and stay flex
Monday	SPS 10 TPO meeting	Cut out waistcoat lining Work on waistcoat	Pick up Bri’s tutu
Tuesday	Take bri’s tutu to uni	MFM 9-5	Extend lapel with pad stitching
Wednesday	Meet with graham	Bic 3-7 - Traffic	Extend lapel with pad stitching Practical work Blog/workbook
Thursday	TPO research	Put waistcoat together	TPO research
Friday	Trouser pockets	Trouser pockets	BIC 5.30-11
Saturday	Finish trousers		BIC: 5.30-11
Sunday

Week 8 Reflection

I have finally completed all the jacket and waistcoat pockets and attached the canvases to both the jacked and the waistcoat. I have really pushed myself this week due to the fitting and it has paid off. However I did not put the pockets in the backs of the trousers, this is now something I have to consider weather I am going to do it or not.  The fitting went really well and I am pleased with how it is looking. In my original plan I was hopping to have my suit almost finished at his point of the project however I have only just had the first fitting. I will be starting the second part of EMP on Monday and therefore I will now re-consider my full time plan making sure I allow for both projects. I will do this after I have attendee the TPO meeting on Monday. I feel that I have not achieved my original goals as I underestimated the time that I hoped things would take. Also as this is such a long project it is easy to think that I have plenty of time for everything however it is really important for me to make sure I do keep on top of things and make sure I work really hard to finish this first part of my EMP project so I can fully focus on the second part of the project. I also have to make sure I find time to complete my PPP project. 

Pattern Adaptions

The Green lines show where the patterns have been adapted after the second fitting. The trousers had no alterations and therefore there are no pattern pieces shown. These alterations have been added to the paper patterns.

Jacket Alterations

Waistcoat Alterations