Buttons

Today I got the buttons for my suit. I will attach them after the second fitting. 

• The big brown ones are for the Jacket (right)
• The little brown ones are for the Jacket sleeves (left)
• The Middle ones are for the waistcoat (centre)

Jacket Sleeves

I Drafted my sleeves again as the arm hole had changed at the fitting. I then cut them out in calico to check the fit and tacked up the seams in the jacket to see how they looked. Once graham had checked them I then prepared to cut out in top fabric. However the sleeves were bigger than anticipated and I only just have enough fabric without seam allowances added. I have also got to cut the collar out of the same fabric. Because of this the supervisor will order me more fabric, this is good as the it was brought from the same shop as the lining and they were not going to send out the lining as they only delivered orders over £30. The lining and the top cloth now come to £30 so this has been ordered and should be here by Monday or Tuesday. However this has put a hold on my work and I will really be pushed for time next week. 

Jacket - Lining

After completing the alterations I pad stitched the collar and stayflexed the edge. I had to re- pad stitch the lapel several times as it was too bumpy and this meant that it wasn’t laying flat. This is a technique I find really difficult and I think it will take a lot of practice for me to prefect it. I then cut out the facing and lining, put the dart in and stitched together as described in my Level 5 workbook. When I laid them out on top of my jacket I found them to short so I had to re-cut them. When I went to re-cut out the lining I discovered that there was not enough to re-cut out the panels for the jacket and also that there would not be enough for the sleeves, there was only just enough to line the waistcoat. This happened for two reasons, firstly when asked how much I needed I used the amounts which I used for my previous suit and waistcoat however the chest measurement for these was much smaller meaning less fabric was used. Secondly I also had to line the leg of the trousers that I did not previously have to do as the fabric was so rough. Both of these resulted in there not being enough lining left.

Here you can see how the lining is to small around the arm hole and doesn't meet at the side seam. 

There are several reasons that my lining came up small, firstly the seam allowance is included in the pattern when drafting, but when I made adjustments to the pattern I adjusted it to where the seam is and didn’t not add seam allowance on, this meant that I lost ¼” . This is really important if the pattern needed to be used again and it was something I had not considered before.  Secondly the lining always comes up smaller and shifts slightly and this is something that I had not previously noted in my Level 5 workbooks and had forgotten. I think the 3rd reason it came up so small could have been that instead of adding the ¼” seam allowance to attach the lining to the facing I may have taken it away, this would account for a further ½” to be lost. This would explain why it came up so small. I spoke to Mandy and she said I really needed more fabric and to talk to my supervisor who is going to order more fabric for me so I will have to wait till Monday to continue with my lining however next I shall cut out my sleeves. Because of the hold up on my lining it will put more pressure on me next week to complete my jacket for my fitting, because of this I may not get as far as I wanted to with the collar or finishing the lining. 

Waistcoat

I completed all the necessary alterations for the waistcoat form the fitting on the back and on the left hand side ( as you look at it)  of the waistcoat. I then transferred these alterations onto the pattern paper and cut a new right hand piece out as the breast pocket needed to be removed. I then mark tacked, put the pocket in and basted the newly cut canvas on. Following the steps in my workbook I then faced the waistcoat and lined it. I then tacked the front to the back for the second fitting.

I found that when making the waistcoat I made quite a few mistakes, I think this was probably as I haven’t made one since this time last year. I was lucky I had just enough fabric to re-cut the second side, as the pocket needed moving. On reflection I should have made a calico toile of the waistcoat and not tried to do it strait in top fabric. This would have saved me time as I had to re-cut the canvas as it was to small and I would have marked on the pocket placement lines and they would have been changed at a much earlier stage. However I did feel that when I re-did the front panel of my waistcoat it went much smoother than before and I made less mistakes. I am pleased with the stage I have got to on my waistcoat and I feel that it is ready for my second fitting. I have only tacked it together to save on time if I do need to make any alterations but hopefully it will be a case of stitching it together and finishing it off. 

Plus Fours - Finishing

Once I had finished my Plus Fours I showed them to Graham to check that I had made everything correctly. He pointed out several changes and notes to make for next time.

• Lower the bottom hook and bar
• Move the hooks in so they are around 1cm away from the edge
• reinforce the top of the placates, either side of the pockets and around the fly point.
• Remove every other button and tack down so it doesn't gape - next time space buttons further apart
• Next time the topstitching of the placket needs to be more curved
• Next time remember to top stitch the pockets

I will make these alterations once I have the rest of the suit ready for the fitting as I can fit the trousers as they are. 

Plus Fours - Construction

After the fitting I made the appropriate alterations then I lined the trousers. To line the trousers I cut out the lining, as the trousers were cut out, but with an extra ¼’’ of ease all around. They are also shorter and I shortened them to 10cm above the knee line. To create the waistband I started by cutting a strip of cloth the measurements are indicated below. The depth of the strip is 1 ¾’’ and I then added a further 5/8’’ seam allowance along the top and bottom

Once cut out in cloth I also cut out in lining and in canvas, with the canvas I only added seam allowance to the back. Next lay the canvas onto the waistband and baste in lay place. Stitch the centre backs together on both the lining and cloth. Attach the waistband to the trousers using the machine then push all the seam allowance up into the waistband and herringbone into place.  Pull the top seam allowance down and also herring bone this to the canvas. Place on the trouser hooks and buttonhole stitch into place; use cotton tape to anchor the hooks to the canvas. Now lining the waistband by laying the lining on top and pinning into place. When lining the hooks push the lining up underneath as if you are ‘putting them to bed’. Slip stitch the lining down securely to completely encase all the seams of the waistband.

There needs to be an opening to the outside seam of the trousers so they go over the calf. To keep this neat I will add a placket and facing. This should be added when drafting the trousers but can be added now instead. Start by cutting the facing this is around 1’’ wide and 3½’’ deep with ¼’’ seam allowance all around. This is then stitch to the front panel of the trousers along the seam and slip stitch around to keep neat. Next the placket is completed. This is double the size of facing. Stitch into place along the back panel and turn any raw edges in and slip stitch.

I drafted a pattern for the knee bands whilst drafting the trousers. To this I added ¼’’ seam allowance all around and ½’’ seam allowance along the top edge. I also added the width of the placket to the end.  Cut out in top fabric and lining then cut out in collar canvas without the seam allowance. 

Lay the canvas onto the top fabric and baste together, mark tack the placket line and the centre seam line. The centre seam line should be around half the small (under knee). If there are gathers in the trousers this will vary as the majority of the gathers should sit at the front of the trousers not to create too much bulk around the back of the knee. Once happy pin the lining to the cloth right sides together and stitch around leaving the top edge open. Turn trough, role the seam and tack into place. Attach the knee bands to the trousers. Push all the seams down and herring bone them to the canvas to hold in place securely. Fold the lining over and slip stitch into place.  

Weekly Reflection

This week has been quite slow, as I have had several days work and also helped out on other projects. This meant that I didn’t have time to start work on my waistcoat and I didn’t get enough work done on my jacket. Because of this I will have to really push myself next week to make sure I keep on track and don’t have to rush towards the end of the project. However this week I have spent a lot of time on my Investigative study and catching up on my workbook. This week was really important though as I had my fitting and this has given me an idea of where I am in the project and what level I am working to.

Plan

• Jacket
• Make alterations
• Put together
• Draft Sleeve
• Cut out in sleeve in calico and put in, check hang on the stand and hopefully on actor
• Cut out sleeve in top fabric and put together

Waistcoat

• Cut out waistcoat and mark tack
• Pockets
• Any alterations

Trousers

• Attach cuffs and waistband
• Attach fastenings