Friday, 23 March 2012

Reaserch

Here is a Selection of different Jackets from the Later Victorian and Edwardian era. I have shown these images to my dad and he will pick one that he feels will work well for a jacket for him. I will base the design of my jacket on the image that is selected and this is where I will go for design decisions. 

1859 A morning coat, a chesterfield and a tweedside jacket

1880 A lounge jacket a morning coat and a top coat

1891 a frock coat

1859 a morning coat




Thursday, 22 March 2012

SOTS - Opening Night

After the dress rehearsal we had loads to do, we drove up to strawberry hill early but discovered we couldn't go into the room until 2. We went to Kingston again to source tights for the dancers as well as extra make up. we also looked for alternate dresses for Isabella. once this was done we went back to strawberry and started barking down the dancers costume.
Braking down was something which I have never done before so I was learning as I went along. i found it a really fun process and I feel the costumes changed very dramatically once this had been done and they now fit the requirements much better. I fell that as the performance goes on we will continue to brake down and add to there costumes and it will be a changing proses. once the costumes were broken down we started to dress the actors and start on make up. How ever we received a message that one of the dancers, Charlotte had hurt her ankle at collage and was being taken to A&E this not only meant that they were a dancer down but two of the other dancers had driven here to and were also going to be late. we dresses and made up the dancer we did have and were ready in time for the call but now had to wait for the others to turn up. we prepared ourselves and as soon as they arrived we worked as a team to get them ready. After this the performance ran smoothly and everyone was happy with the outcome.
I am having a brake for 2 days now as I have to be at uni for my SDP project but i will be back to dress for Thursday nights performance.

SOTS - Dress Rehearsal


Preparation for the Dress rehearsal was very busy as we had to make alterations to the dancers costumes and  finish them off as well as making any further alterations to the main actors costumes. I had to work on Horace's waistcoat to adapt the centre front line slightly as well as fishing a bodice. Once we got to strawberry hill we discovered that the room we had set up had been used during the day so we had to start by re-setting up our space and be ready to pack away each evening. We then set about finishing the costumes and preparing for the evening show. At around 5 we discovered that we didn't have enough eyelets for the dancers bodices and that we needed extra fabric for the drastically adapted monks cloak. Me and Leane found there was a fabric land not far away in Kingston so we left to go source extra supplies, this should have been a 20 minute job and the sat nave certainly indicated so however we are not used to London traffic or roads. We did mange to get the things we needed but this put us behind for dressing and make up for the dress rehearsal. This taught us that preparation earlier in the day is key and to make sure you always have an extra supply of items such as eyelets, poppers and buttons if it is possible to do so. we managed to get everyone in costume and made up in time for the call however we were unable to brake down the dancers costumes as originally planned.
once the performance was underway the others left for there quick change positions. I was to stay behind in the costume room incase anyone needed me. As it is a sight specific walk through production we cannot be where the actors need us the hole way through waiting as we would get in the way of the audience, instead we have decided to keep a person in the costume room as a constant to make any quick repairs. In the first scene Georgia, one of the dancers, costumes needed repairing.  the seam had gone on the side of here bodice. she tole me she had 20 minutes till she was needed again so i took her out of it and re stitched the sides, i then started to lace her up into the bodice but several eyelets in she was called to be in position. as her bodice was undone at the back and she was to hide behind a doorway until the audience walked past i went with her and hid behind the door waiting. I managed to lace the majority of the bodice up when the scream indicating the audience were moving was heard. I hid as Georgia did her part then once the audience had moved on i finished lacing the bodice then returned to the costume room. luckily the rest of the evening was quite, we packed the room away with a long list of jobs for the next day!

To do:
- Isabella's dress is to long and she is uncomfortable in it, source alternate dresses and she will also bring in alternate dresses. Check with Diane and Christina.
- brake down dancers costumes and make further alterations and add muslin
- the cord holding the breaches up is not strong enough and snapped during the performance on Leigh's trousers. use shoe laces and dye.





Monday, 19 March 2012

Sign of the strawberry - tech rehearsal

Yesterday was the tech rehearsal at strawberry hill. It was really exciting and from the time we arrived we didn't stop. We started by fitting the dancers costumes, this involved finding appropriate sized underskirts then fitting the the dancers and pinning them up so the had enough movement. Once off we takes them into place. We then fitted the bodices and marked the alteration to do for the dress rehearsals which are today. When then fitted the breaches and shirts for them men. Later to night we will drape the muslin over and attach. We then fitted the clothes on the main actors and made the final decisions on costumes and marked any final alterations. All these costumes fitted really well as we had already had first fittings in calico toils. We are all happy with the final outcomes and will sort jewellery and makeup tonight at the costume rehearsal. The biggest changes are to the monks cloak as there was a last minute decision to make the monk apple taller though i create the cowl Emma took over on crating and altering the costume as i was fitting the dancers at the time. The evening was very busy and we were constantly making changes and having discussions with the director, writer and actors themselves. I feel that we all learnt loads and i am really looking forward to the costume run though tonight. We have also organised our room so we have a set base for the run of the performance to dress and do make up.

Saturday, 17 March 2012

Learning Agremenet



DESCRIPTION:

In this project I will draft and create a two-piece suit using traditional tailoring methods. I will find an image of a suit from the late Victorian/Edwardian era and create a suit using the image as inspiration. I will create the suit for my dad who I have already created a waistcoat for. Later on in the project I will also complete a fitting as I feel this will be a very import part of my learning processes.
I have always had an interest in tailoring and after completing my Defining Practice project, where I created a tailored waistcoat, I new that it was something that I wanted to further my knowledge in.  I then create a jacked as part of Concepts in Context and this was different again from anything I have ever created and has given me a real interest in menswear.  I want to specialise in tailoring as I find it really interesting both historically and technically. I really enjoy learning about the traditions skills that are linked closely with tailoring and in the future be able to transfer these specialist skills into my costume work. I feel that this project will push me to work at a high standard, as the work is extremely precise.
For my assessment I will produce a workbook detailing all the process I have learnt throughout this project, which I can use as reference in the future. I will draft patterns for a jacket, waistcoat and trousers and using these patterns, except the waistcoat, create a two-piece suite. Because of my work experience I will not hand the trousers in but I will still make them as I feel that this will push me to work hard and I wish to gain all the necessary techniques and experience to create a suit. I will record all my reflections in a blog that will show my progress through this project.
I am also doing a work experience in Strawberry hill, Twickenham, where I am part of the costume team, as well as making and sourcing the costumes I will be dressing and taking care of the costume throughout the 2 week run of the performance. I shall write a 1000 word essay about my experiences as well as recording this in my blog. 



Aims:


A1 To provide opportunities for self-initiated, autonomous learning
            and develop the ability to plan time and work independently

A2 To provide opportunity to study the contextual development of costume and performance design

A3 To further develop the creative, intellectual and practical applications of research and contextualisation within a self initiated environment

A4            To propose, develop and evaluate professional aspirations through professional development planning

Learning Outcomes:

On completion of this unit you will be able to:

LO1 Identify and define the context for the development of your own work towards professional aspirations

LO2 Demonstrate an understanding of the development of Costume with performance design
`
LO3 Have developed the creative, intellectual and practical applications of research and contextualisation

LO4    Consolidate and demonstrate professional aspirations and planning


Assessment Requirements:

HAND IN:
A tailored jacket with patterns for waistcoat and trousers and samples and a personal reflection of the development of your project in your blog and a final written evaluation (750 words) evidenced in your Blog   100%

WORK PLACEMENT
1 week – minus trouser construction (but pattern will still need to be completed) plus 1000 word essay.  


Each assessment requirement must be passed at a minimum grade of 40% to successfully complete the unit


Assessment Criteria (specific criteria related to the learning outcomes and linked to the statement of generic assessment criteria matrix):
1.    Evidence of knowledge of contextual and theoretical issues – The level to which you have considered the context of your project and evidenced that to your body of work (LO1, LO2)

2.    Evidence of understanding through synthesis and development – The application and extend to which research has informed decision-making and project development together with the appropriate management of time (LO2, LO3, LO4)

3.    Evidence of evaluation and reflection – The extent to which you have reflected on the progress of your project and used it to inform personal development planning (LO4)

4.    Evidence of realisation through the communication of ideas - The presentation of your work and the level to which specialist knowledge has been applied, communicated and evidenced (LO3, LO4)

Reference Material

This will vary according to the needs of the individual project.  You will define Reference Material through personal investigation and consultation with staff and list it in your Learning Agreement.

Aldrich. W. (1997) Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. UK . Blackwell Science LTD. Third edition.

Bridgland.A.S (1928) The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier. London. Claxton

Doyle. R. (2005) The Art of the Tailor. Canada. Sartorial Press Publications.

Waugh. N. (1964) the Cut of Men’s Clothes 1600-1900. England. Clays ltd

Wednesday, 14 March 2012

The Sign Of The Strawberry

Over the last few months me and 3 others have been designing, making and sourcing the costumes for a sight specific, walk through play which will be taking place at Strawberry Hill House, Twickenham. The story tells of the Ghost of Horace Walpole, the Gothic novelist who used to live in the house and how he finds his heir, a most unsuspecting hero. As a group we have made and sourced the costumes for 5 main costumes and the costumes for 8 dancers. We are currently creating the final makes and finishing putting everything together. The tech and dress rehearsals start on the 18th and the performance runs from the 20th to the 29th. during this time we will be staying in London and working on the run of the show. This project has become part of my work experience for my self directed project so I will write a 1000 word essay on it to finish as well as regularly updating my blog.

Interesting links
Strawberry hill 
Artemis Theatre Company


Monday, 12 March 2012

Beginning Tailoring

Today we start SDP and I found out what I will be doing for tailoring and about learning agreements. To begin with I shall be researching into different styles of tailoring and different suits. I will then find 2/3 images of suits I would like to create which are late Victorian to Edwardian style. Once an image is chosen I will begin to create a suit similar.  I will be drafting a 3 piece suit then adapting the pattern to match the Image. I will then create the jacket and trousers of the suit learning all the technical processes involved. I am creating the suit for my dad and I will get him to make choices on the style of jacket and cloth. Later on in the Project I will also have a fitting with him. 


This week I will:
- Write my Learning Agreement
- Start a TIme plan
- Prepare for my work experience
- Start researching tailoring and they type of suit I want to create
- Get measurements
- Start pattern drafting