Week 6 Plan

Day	Morning	Afternoon	Evening
Saturday	Cut out	Cut out	Mark tack
Sunday	Mark tack	Blog Workbook PPP	Mark tack
Monday	Cut out canvases	Mark tack	Bic : 5.15 - 11
Tuesday	Pocket samples: Welt, jetted with flap, trousers	Lecture: 1.30 – 3.30 Uh001 Alumni Speaker: Sam Langridge Equity Speaker	Pad stitch canvases
Wednesday	Pocket samples	Prep pockets	Pad stitch canvases
Thursday	Digital workshop 10-11	Trouser side entry pockets	Go to Bri’s
Friday	Jacket and waistcoat pockets	IS results Jacket and waistcoat pockets
Saturday	Work book Blog PPP Finishing pockets, pad stitching Prep to start putting together next week.		BIC: 6-11
Sunday

Week 5 Reflection

This week I chose my fabric and ordered it from H. E Box, this was really exciting but also scary as it is a large chunk of my budget. I also had my first calico fitting this week. I created the calico toile, though this is time consuming it is quite a simple process and I completed it reasonably quickly. I then prepped for the fitting. The fitting went really well and I there are mainly only minor alterations. One of these were the pocket positioning and this is part of what makes a calico fitting so important as the pockets go into the jacket first and once they are done these is no going back therefore I would have had to re-cut the waistcoat. I am not keeping up with my original plan and I am going to have to work really hard to make sure I complete on time. 

Pattern Alterations

After the fitting I started to alter my patterns according to the notes taken. The blue lines show how the patterns have been altered and these alterations link directly to the notes taken from the fitting. There were only minor alterations from the fitting, showing that my patterns were almost accurate. However the most important alterations that I have made are the placement of the pockets, this is something which I had to work on from Specialist Practice. I have altered the placement of all the pockets according to the models shape. This is something that is really important to get right early on as once you have put the pocket in there is no altering the placement. All the other alterations could have been made during the first fitting in top fabric due to the seam allowances and inlays. 

Jacket

Waistcoat

Trousers

Fitting

I created calico toiles to test my patterns, as I had not used these instructions before and I wanted to make sure that I had drafted them correctly. The fitting went really well and there were only minor alterations. When taking into consideration the inlays and seam allowances I would have been fine to go strait into top cloth however this was not something that I wanted to risk. This was also the first fitting that I had done alone, with only an assistant to help me. I decided I was confident in this and being a toil fitting was a good opportunity for me to see how I could work independently using purely, my own judgements. 

Jacket

Increase centre back by a total of ½’’

Increase the centre front of jacket by ¾’’ at the bottom, ½’’ at the hip line and tapering up to nothing at the brake line

Take in slightly at the side seam only on the front panel by 1’’ sweeping in to nothing by the chest line

Move the pocket down slightly by 1’’

Scoop out the armhole slightly – leave till first fitting in cloth

Waistcoat

Increase centre back by a total of ½’’

Increase centre front by 1’’at the bottom, ½’’ at the waistline and tapering to nothing at the chest line.

Move the curve of the neck down to the chest line

Move bottom pocket towards the centre front by 1’’

Move top pocket up by ¾’’ and make it start on line with the bottom pocket

Increase the side seam of the front panel by ¼’’

Extend shoulder seam by ¹⁄₈’’ on front and back

Add back dart

Trousers

Raise trouser hems by 7¼’’ 

Otherwise they fit well

Pattern alterations

After the fitting I started to alter my patterns according to the notes taken. The blue lines show how the patterns have been altered and these alterations link directly to the notes taken from the fitting. There were only minor alterations from the fitting, showing that my patterns were almost accurate. However the most important alterations that I have made are the placement of the pockets, this is something that I had to work on from Specialist Practice. I have altered the placement of all the pockets according to the models shape. This is something that is really important to get right early on as once you have put the pocket in there is no altering the placement. All the other alterations could have been made during the first fitting in top fabric due to the seam allowances and inlays. 

Fabric

I have bought the top cloth for my suit, as I was unable to find an exact match of the fabric that would be suitable I have decided to use a chalk stripe. I have chosen a 12/14oz grey 100% wool chalk stripe from H E box. The cost of this has come to £148.50 and I ordered 6 meters due to the height of my model. As I originally budgeted £200 for top cloth I am inside my budget and this can go towards styling the photos shoot. 

Week 5 Plan

Day	Morning	Afternoon	Evening
Saturday	Calico Fabric Land Blog Work Book	BIC: 1-5	Mark tack
Sunday	Put together	BIC: 2-6 TM	Blog Work Book
Monday	Check trouser patterns Fabric sourcing	Fabric sourcing	Finish putting Waistcoat and jacket together.
Tuesday	Cut out trousers	Put trousers together	Prep for fitting
Wednesday	Fabric sourcing	Prep for fitting	Calico fitting 6:00
Thursday	Pattern alterations	Pattern alterations	BIC: 5.15
Friday	Cut out in cloth	Cut out in cloth
Saturday	Mark Tack Blog Work book	Mark Tack Blog Work book	Put together Blog Work book
Sunday	Put together Blog Work book	Put together Blog Work book	Put together Blog Work book

Week 4 Reflection

This week mainly consisted of pattern drafting and completing any remaining research. The pattern drafting took slightly longer than anticipated and I feel that I am really going to have to push myself to make sure this project is completed in time.  I feel that the pattern drafting took so long as I was using new patterns from The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier, and because I new I had just over a week to prepare for my fitting so I wasn’t pushed for time. I will also have to start working faster as PPP starts next week that will increase my workload.