Canvas

First mark the pieces on the pattern paper . The hair canvas is the biggest piece and covers the majority of the jacket apart from a quarter circles along the side seam. This starts 10cms under the armhole and curves down to the hem line cutting the pocket through the centre exactly. Apart from the quarter circle the rest of the piece is covered including the seam allowances and inlays. Next comes the shoulder canvas, this is slightly stiffer than hair canvas. This starts 1cm above the cut out quarter circle on the side seam goes horizontally across the jacket to the centre front to just below the brake like. There is a slight curve to this line. It stops 1cm away from the centre front line where it goes up to the brake line and follows the brake line to the shoulder. The section over the shoulder includes the seam allowances and inlays. Finally the breast felt, this is the smallest piece and curves around from the arm hole just missing the dart round the centre front line. Then follow the brake line up but 2cms away from the brake line until the shoulder line. See the diagram to make this clearer.

Once these have been cut out mark tack the brake line onto the hair canvas and cut out any darts. Once the darts are cut out hold them together using stay flex and then zig-zag them in place to hold them. Next lay the shoulder canvas on the hair canvas and hold in place using pad stitching. To do this lay the canvases down with the centre front directly in front of you, using basting thread create a stitch which is follows the brake line down. The stitch is a Z shape and each stitch is around an inch apart. Follow the brake line down then up again and keep repeating the process staggering the stitch line. This is done to build up the stiffness of the jacket the stiffer you want the jacket front to be the close the stitches need to be.  See the diagram to make this clearer. Once the shoulder canvas is held in place repeat this stitch down the brake line with one stitch on one stitch off. Next place the breast felt on and repeat the process.